Day 12: My heart belongs near the ocean

Day 12: My heart belongs near the ocean

• 4.17.2013

If I ever wondered where I should be living and spending my days, today was a resounding reminder that it is near the ocean. There is something about seeing large bodies of water (lakes barely count) that literally makes my heart beat faster.

I can't get enough of it. Ever.

Last night I went to bed after about 3 glasses of campagne (self poured ... so it could be a smidge more) and a dinner of prosciutto. So when I woke up this morning, I was not amazingly excited to get an early start on the day for a trip to Capri.
I'm not sure how long I could spend as a "tourist" on the island. I'm not one for shopping or navigating crowds. But, every other aspect of this island spoke to me in a way that was so familiar yet brand new and refreshing. Capri is located just about 20-25 minutes off the shore of Italy and seems to have a bit of a ritzy glitzy image. I spent no time examining this... instead I did my best to get as far from the crowds as possible.

And it was a success. Especially if you consider a success sunburning my lily white legs for the first time of the season. Win some, lose some. Kerrianne warned me that wearing shorts would make me look like an American. She was a million percent right - especially if the shorts are a nautical print and from JCrew. But, I figure... I wanted to wear this shorts in Italy and if I can look like a tourist any day it would be on Capri.

Boat Ride
There are two boat options to Capri, slow v fast. 25 mins v 20 mins. But, it's more than just the 5 minutes and 6 Euros difference, it's options ... and the fast ferry runs like 3x as much as the slow cheap ferry. That being said, for some reason all the high school trips take the fast ferry and it's like standing in the middle of an Urban Outfitters catalog. I saw a crop top and many high-waisted short shorts.

The view from the boat is also pretty great as it goes along the Amalfi Coast a bit. I couldn't see it super great because of all the hormone enthused teenagers blocking my view. I figured it would be fine and that I'd see it on my way back to Sorrento. Spoiler alert, I was so tired that I fell asleep.

Capri by Water
The instant you land on shore in Capri you are asked if you want to take a ride around the island. I had actually heard good things about this but I hate being hassled. So I walked away and let the crowds disperse before I tried to figure this out. This guy named Stefano approached me and seemed significantly more legit than the rest of the operators. Turns out, he is and he liked me enough to make me a killer deal. I got a 2 hr semi-private ride around the island for 25 Euros. But don't tell the couple he got to go with me because he charged them more. Stefano's wife was not pleased about this but as soon as I had charmed her toddler daughter, all was forgiven.

apparently this is like the 2nd most famous lighthouse in Italy? It has some incredible range of 400 meters? Does that make sense?

 These caves are called the 3 Sisters.

 Inside "Alex" the guide's favorite cave... the green grotto

see that little house at the very top of the highest peak? That's the house that Gerber Baby food built... and is the people that own it, own gerber baby foods. So, I guess that business is doing well.

 

you can't even tell how tall this is. It's insane.

 I can't say enough good things about my tour around the island. It just shows how amazing and impressive the island of Capri is ... and what an insane history it has. I mean there was this one cliff that one of the Roman emperors used to push his lovers off if they didn't satisfy him. There were also insane caves, rock formations, and views of Mount Vesuvius.

It didn't hurt that the tour guide was easy on this eyes.

Lunch
When Stefano greeted the boat, I asked him for a recommendation for an "easy lunch"and he suggested I visit his friend "Giaccomo". Absolutely, anything for Stefano. Giaccomo made me a great pizza and gave me a nice table in the shade - which was just what I needed.

Also, it never hurts when the man who brings you the pizza goes "pretty pizza for pretty lady".

When I got up from lunch I felt like I needed a Kinder Bueno for the rest of my time on the island - but I was distracted by Stefano. Get this, he came over to me to thank me for coming on his tour and gave me a bottle of lemonchello so that I would "always remember what a great day I had". I can do that. So,  I either have to drink it before I leave, check my bag, or risk that its less than 3 oz.

Anacapri ... and the top of the World
Capri was never really on my list of things to do while I was in Italy - but when I was talking to Meghan about it before I left she indicated there was this chair lift activity that takes you to the very top of the island. THE VERY TOP. Since Stefano also agreed that it was a great idea, I figured I'd close out the day with that activity.

After one quick bus ride and another ticket purchased, I was sitting in a solo chair lift being slowly lifted about the island. The first 5 minutes of the climb is being spent above people's gardens ... and I feel like they have a very different planting strategy I might have to mention to my Dad.


But as soon as you get to the top, it's a holy shit moment. It is truly a panoramic view with nothing blocking and the clearest of blues everywhere. It's insane. The pictures barely do it justice. It's like all the blues blend together a bit in a sweet warm way.

 I feel like when you compare this picture with the other ones, you truly get the magnitude of the island rocks.

 this is my favorite.

 I closed out the day by walking back to the Hilton from the boat. It's just about a 15 minute walk and my Jawbone could use the work after a rather sedentary day yesterday. I then procured a Kinder Bueno from the vending machine and ate it on my balcony while assessing my sunburns.

Seriously, my lily white legs are burned. It's not cute.

Oh, and I spent sunset emailing the hotel in Rome to set up some tours for me while I drank champagne (not 3 glasses). I'm done carting myself around and ready to let someone do it for me - plus I'm checking myself into a slightly luxury hotel on points ... so it seems like a reasonable request. I'll be demanding 6 extra pillows immediately. Of course.

Ciao.